There are dishes you cook because you are hungry, and dishes you cook because the occasion demands it. Lawar belongs to the second kind. In Bali, it is the dish that marks transition: births, weddings, temple anniversaries, family reunions. It is prepared in quantity, by many hands, in outdoor kitchens where the air smells of torch smoke, crushed spices, and fresh coconut.
My father learned to make it by watching his uncles work in silence, chopping long beans into tiny fragments with swift, rhythmic precision. The proportions lived in muscle memory, passed down through gesture and correction. What unites all versions of lawar is texture, finely chopped, almost granular, and the intensity of Balinese spice paste, the base genep, which transforms raw ingredients into something alive with heat, fragrance, and depth.
This version uses chicken and keeps the blood optional, making it more accessible for home kitchens outside Bali. The spirit remains the same: precision in chopping, generosity with spice, and the willingness to get your hands into the bowl.
Serves: 6-8
Prep time: 45 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
For the chicken and vegetables:
- 500 g (1.1 lb) chicken breast or thigh, poached and finely chopped
- 200 g (7 oz) long beans, finely chopped into 3 mm (1/8 in) pieces
- 100 g (3.5 oz) young cabbage, finely shredded
- 150 g (5.3 oz) fresh grated coconut (or frozen, thawed)
- 2 salam leaves (Indonesian bay leaves)
- 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
- 500 ml (2 cups) water for poaching
For the spice paste (base genep):
- 8 shallots, peeled
- 6 cloves garlic, peeled
- 4 red chilies, stems removed
- 3 bird's eye chilies (optional, for heat)
- 3 cm (1.2 in) fresh turmeric root, peeled (or 1 tsp ground turmeric)
- 2 cm (0.8 in) fresh ginger, peeled
- 2 cm (0.8 in) galangal, peeled
- 3 candlenuts (or macadamia nuts)
- 1 tsp shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
- 1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and ground
- 1/2 tsp black peppercorns, crushed
- 2 kaffir lime leaves, midrib removed, finely sliced
- 1 stalk lemongrass (white part only), finely sliced
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) coconut oil
For finishing:
- Juice of 2 limes
- 1 tsp palm sugar (or brown sugar)
- 1 tsp salt, or to taste
- 3 tbsp fried shallots
- Fresh lime wedges, for serving
Instructions
1. Poach the chicken
Bring 500 ml (2 cups) water to a gentle simmer with salam leaves and bruised lemongrass. Add the chicken and poach for 15-20 minutes until cooked through. Remove, cool slightly, and chop into very fine pieces (about 3-5 mm / 1/8 in). Reserve the poaching liquid.
2. Prepare the vegetables
Blanch the long beans and cabbage separately in boiling water for 1-2 minutes until just tender but still crisp. Drain and cool immediately in cold water. Drain well and set aside.
3. Make the spice paste
Grind shallots, garlic, chilies, turmeric, ginger, galangal, candlenuts, shrimp paste, coriander, and black pepper into a smooth paste using a mortar and pestle or food processor. Add a splash of the poaching liquid if needed to help blending.
4. Cook the spice paste
Heat 2 tbsp (30 ml) coconut oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the spice paste, sliced kaffir lime leaves, and lemongrass. Fry gently for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant and the oil begins to separate. The paste should darken slightly and smell rich and toasted. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
5. Toast the grated coconut (optional but traditional)
In a dry pan over low heat, lightly toast the grated coconut for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly, until it smells nutty and just begins to color. Remove and cool.
6. Assemble the lawar
In a large mixing bowl, combine the chopped chicken, blanched long beans, cabbage, grated coconut, and cooled spice paste. Add lime juice, palm sugar, and salt. Mix thoroughly by hand, kneading gently to coat every piece evenly. Taste and adjust seasoning. It should be bright, spicy, fragrant, and slightly sweet.
7. Rest and serve
Let the lawar sit for 10-15 minutes at room temperature to allow the flavors to meld. Transfer to a serving platter, top with fried shallots, and serve with steamed rice, grilled meats, and fresh lime wedges.
Notes
- On blood: Traditional Balinese lawar often includes fresh chicken or pork blood, which gives it a darker color and richer flavor. This version omits it for ease and safety, but the dish remains authentic in spirit.
- Texture is key: The finer you chop the ingredients, the better the spice paste can coat them. Take your time with the knife work.
- Serve the same day: Lawar does not keep well and is best eaten within a few hours of preparation.
- Vegetarian variation: Replace chicken with young jackfruit or firm tofu. Omit shrimp paste or replace with fermented soybean paste.
